Down by the river

Beating around the bush in the magnificent Timbavati Private Nature Reserve

Before I even get a chance to check into my luxury safari tent at the Simbavati River Lodge, I’m rushed through the spacious  dining area towards the river. There to welcome me – in my mind, at least – was a majestic elephant whiling away  the afternoon with a  grassy nibble and the odd spray of mud to cool down.

Many of the lodges in the Timbavati Private Nature Reserve are situated along the Nhlaralumi River (which is, for many hot months of the year, a dry river bed), but the  Simbavati River Lodge is placed prominently in front of a dam in the river, boasting water all year around.

Hippo, elephant, antelope and crocodile sightings  are a frequent occurrence, and because of the  activity surrounding the dam (especially  in the dry season when most  of the pans have run dry), the managers at the lodge tell me that they have had every single kind of game except rhino walking among the chalets and peeking their heads into the airy corridors of the dining area to say hello.

Quality game viewing really is the Timbavati’s claim to fame. In the  two short days, we tracked a leopard, stumbled upon a pride of lionesses and cubs feeding on a giraffe and witnessed a pack of 11 wild dogs playing under the shade of a thorn tree. The reserve shares a common unfenced border with the Kruger National Park, allowing animals free range and   there a few other factors that really give the Timbavati the edge.

For a start, no self drives are permitted and the lodges in the area are not allowed on the roads from  8pm to 6am at night and between 11pm and 3pm during the day (in order to give the game a rest from the vehicles). Also, when there’s been a special sighting (notably one of the Big Five) there’s a two game vehicle maximum rule, the vehicles are allowed to go off-road and the guides call in their sighting and share them with all of the other lodges within the Timbavati for the benefit of all of the guests. 

When you’re not beating around the bush in the reserve, the airy, thatch roofed paradise that is the Simbavati River Lodge makes for a pretty fine distraction. Ample buffet breakfasts and lunches keep you blissfully saturated, and the three-course evening meals that warm the heart after a chilly sunset game drive  provide for convivial group dining and a chance to swop stories. of the various sightings of the day.

The tender beef fillet and decadent Amarula chocolate cheesecake still live on in my memory. It’s amazing how tiring the sun, fresh air and mesmerising, bumpy chugging along of the game drive vehicles can be, so climbing into bed ridiculously early isn’t frowned upon at all.

During the day, when the sun is beating down and most of the animals have gone into hiding, the air conditioned confines of your tent or the cool poolside loungers are the two top ways to kill time before the next rev of the Land Rover signals the time to get up.

As far as accommodation is concerned, all of the various options have their own privileges. The three family chalets (Buffalo, Rhino and  Elephant) sleep four and five, are close to the communal lodge living areas and reception and have what must be some of the best bathrooms with a view in SA.

The four luxury tents situated along the river (ask for Leopard, Lion, Cheetah or Wild Dog) have picturesque river views, especially in the winter months when the trees are bare, and the  remaining four luxury tents situated  within the thick bush (Waterbuck, Kudu, Impala and  Bushbuck) are on the elephants’ path down to the river, so sightings are quite common.

Another alternative is to keep yourself within easy reach of a fresh gin at the bar and tonic  and perch on one of the leather deck chairs facing the river.  You never know who might be sharing that long drink with you.

Win a holiday!

One CitiVibe reader can win a two night stay at the Simbavati River Lodge in the Timbavati Private Nature Reserve for two people. The prize includes all accommodation, two daily game drives, three meals a day and Avis car hire (group A) from Johannesburg for three days. Drinks, gratuities, a conservation fee (R150) and a vehicle entry fee into the park (R120) are excluded.

The prize is subject to availability and valid until August 31 2012.

For more information on the Simbavati River Lodge, visit www.simbavati.com, e-mail info@simbavati.com or call 021-945-3751.

To win, SMS the word SIMBAVATI, plus your full name and suburb of residence to 33521. SMSes are charged at R1,50 (entries are restricted to cell phone entries only) and the competition closes at midnight tonight.

Terms and conditions apply.

This article first appeared in CitiVibe in The Citizen on Friday 21 October 2011. Photos by Natalie Bosman.